It's all the things I can't tell you

It was quite a week at our 'little' post this past week. the problem is i cannot really talk about it.

I hosted our first book group this weekend (something i set up in our neighborhood, so those of us without cars could walk to a social event). I had been invited into the ongoing book group a few months back, even read one of the books, but had no way to get to the gathering. it was a success, the first book was not a favorite of any of us, but there is always the next one.

We got into a very interesting discussion about not being able to tell people/family what we do. working for the government, we get lots of information, but much of it we cannot share - certainly not in any detail. i guess i didnt really think through this before i took the job. i can remember writing long letters to send back home, with every detail and brutal honesty, when i worked in East Africa. the difference is i was working for an NGO (non-governmental organization).

The conversation continued in the context of current government budget cuts and how the foreign services is looked down upon within the government and misunderstood by the general public.  like we all sit around doing nothing and live like royalty. NOT TRUE.  Depending on how one looks at it, this is truly a job of service to our country. Definitely not in the realm of military, but now that i am in the midst of this job, i am realizing all that i have given up and what my greater role is in the context of being a representative of the US government. and how do we explain what we do to the general public - in order to get more support - if we cant really talk about what we do.

something to ponder.

and of course it isnt all bad; there are reasons why one would choose to serve in this capacity. Otto is thriving and has so much more freedom and is surrounded by a true community here.  another good example is i am headed to Istanbul, Turkey on Saturday, for a week, for my annual CME (continuing medical education for my non-medical readers). so although some days i feel on the edge of the cliff contemplating stepping off because this sucks so bad (no, i am not suicidal...just a metaphor - the step off would be coming back home in defeat), hopefully this week coming up will revitalize me and give me some hope. We have so many travel opportunities surrounding us, so as soon as I get back i can start plotting my next escape.

the photos from Istanbul should be fantastic. stay tuned.

Its a Snow Day...W Africa style

got the call early this morning - thought it was a medical emergency. but i was told the embassy wouldn't be opening on time and the school bus wasn't running. Snow Day right. oh wait, there is no snow in Ouagadougou.  As it turns out there was shooting in town last night by local military (almost entirely up into the air). It spread all the way to our neighborhood - which as i have previously complained about, is a ways out of the center of town.  it lasted for hours. everything is calm now in the light of day. We went into work at 10am. lucky Otto, he got the whole day off (and spent it at his buddies house).

Our very able security folks (one from Oregon of course) are monitoring the situation - everyone was sent home a little early today and we have a dusk to dawn curfew. all sounds reasonable and good. Otto and i will watch a good movie or play some flux (a new great game his dad sent us). Likely life will go back to normal tomorrow.

If you hear news...don't worry. Journalists have to make a good story out of a not terribly interesting, politically mild place.  And in light of all that is currently going on in the world, this is a small blip.

The Art of West Africa

Almost 2 weeks ago was International Women's day. Celebrated here in Africa (and Europe, but seems to have missed holiday classification in the US...). We had the day off of work, so i went out for the day with my co-worker. she took me to do some long needed shopping (because the motor pool here, which i am dependent on, only take you to the grocery store once a week, not to specialty stores).

She also took me to a hole in the wall African Art distributors house/store. Five rooms of the most amazing art.  most from Mali i was told. Prices are of course a fraction of what you would pay in the US.  let me know if you see anything you want...

I hosted poker night last weekend - a truly big event here in Ouaga. Eighteen people showed up and it was standing room only, a couple of people had to wait on tables. My neighbor (the Gunny - he is military) won nearly everything. It was his first time coming to poker night, he didnt know about it and i only invited him because he lives next door. At first, he was worried he would never be invited again...but i told him, that he is required to come in the future so we can all earn our money back. i am so funny about gambling, people were teasing me that i have a gambling problem because i have now lost a total of $36 over the 2 months I have been playing. i think i need an intervention because i just cant stop!!

Otto is great, but excited for his visit home in a couple of weeks. He is very active here and i hardly see him on weekends because he is hanging with his friends. he has so much more freedom here. he will just hop on his bike and head over to someone's house. very little traffic where we live, and it is so safe.  reminds me of my childhood ages ago. kids dont seem to get that freedom as much anymore.

i hitched a ride with a colleague last week and finally got a chance to eat at the Indian restaurant. it was quite good. I am getting sick of pizza, which is the main food served at restaurants. I had a chance to go with a group of like minded vegetarians to a veggie buffet restaurant (the owner makes tofu), but i had a work emergency so i missed it. they promised we would all go again sometime.

We have some new, and welcome faces here at the embassy. people i feel more connected to. although of the 3 new long term people that have just arrived  - ALL of them are from the PNW. one from Oregon City, one Eugene and the last Vashon Island. what are the chances of that. Currently in Ouaga we have 8 people in our small American community, all hailing from the NW. And here i thought i would be surrounded by east coasters.

There are still a few things here that are bringing me down, but i am trying so hard to stay positive. It continues to be so busy at work...but with busy work. Although i had a more serious case this w/e that took up a bunch of my time - i feel best when i am providing health care. but i think i am done, at least for the coming week, with paperwork/report type stuff. i have big projects, but never time to even start them. When Otto is in PDX, i will probably spend some weekend days in the health unit getting project type stuff done, when i have a number of quite hours available to me to focus on one thing.

I did site visits to the National Hospital and a very well equipped private hospital last week. the differences were stark and shocking. i will save that for another email.

and i know, what you are all dying to know. what is happening with my vehicle. ...Nothing... it sits in customs. the head of customs, who is the only person who can release it, appears to be MIA.  Tanks rolled into town last week (and sadly, there were a bunch of casualties, so that sure puts my issue, wanting my car, in perspective). i have pretty much written it off, but the powers-that-be at the Embassy think they may still be able to get it. The Embassy in Abidjan has been evacuated because of the situation, but someone with the embassy who is well connected is heading back there at some point soon and he will make an attempt to contact the right people and get the vehicle released. my fingers are crossed.

Out and About

Well, I can at least say i am very busy. where there is a will - i will find a way to get around.

Car news - none really. still stuck in Abidjan where the situation worsens daily. on the verge of civil war. so, i am looking into my options - hire a regular driver, buy a local cheap car, beg rides off of everyone else once they get their cars. 

Last week was event filled.  There was the 50th Anniversary of Peace Corp celebration downtown. Peace Corp is huge here (nearly 160 volunteers). they are well liked by the Burkinabe.  the event was filled with loud music, a serenade in English, formal speeches, lots of microphone feedback (seems inherent to an African event) and good food/bad beer.

Classic formal event setup. The Ambassador (a wonderful person) is speaking on the far right.  At the beginning of every speech here, you address each important person individually, then the different groups and then the general crowd.  This is a throw back from colonial days. the intro to the speech can take up to 5 minutes.

The next night, i ditched Otto with a toddler and her nanny (he is such a good sport if he has his DVD player and PSP) to go catch a movies as part of FESPACO.  this is a huge event that draws an international crowd. it the an every other year international film festival, highlighting African filmmakers.  I think the only reason i have never heard of it is because it is Francophone. every hotel room in Ouaga was booked. there were a few entries from the US. 

I saw a film called 'Coton Noir" about the cotton industry here in Burkina (it was by French filmmakers) and it's effect on the economy, land, farmers. I think it was good - it was all in French, so I understood less than 1/4 of what was said. But the evening was heavenly. i felt like a normal person. The evening started off at a reception (more food and bad beer) for some film magazine - we got to chit-chat with the movie making crowd. then to the movie which was at the French Cultural Center. unfortunately i forgot my camera - it was an amazing space. it is quite open and modern, we at at this fantastic outdoor restaurant in the compound - really good food and fast for local standards (most meals take about 45 minutes from ordering to being served). There was an art exhibit of a local artist - displayed were these huge oil portraits of all types of Africans and these cut out books; almost like pop up, but with strings of people and street scenes. Then we watched the movie in the outdoor theater with the stars above our heads. after that evening, i can see why people love it here so much.

The following night i gave a lecture at the American Language Institute on hypertension. the class was packed and people were quite engaged. High blood pressure is a huge health problem here - even with young people. we did drivers physicals for all of our drivers (about 45) and 1/4 of them had hypertension - and most are younger than 45.  I think will likely go back to lecture more (it is in English so that is fine with me) - next topic - Head injuries and the importance of wearing helmuts. everyone here rides bikes and vespa type scooters (called motos) - nobody protects their head.  We had an Embassy employee die a few weeks ago driving to work on his moto - no helmut.

Friday it was off to one of the nicest restaurants with our very kind neighbors (the ones that let us tag along everywhere). Godwana. it is an art gallery and restaurant. wonderful setting - outdoor and indoor seating. very relaxed, very African. and good food. i will try to get photos next time i go.

Saturday i met up with the Swimming group that meets every week at a hotel near our house. it is a great - and long - pool. it is now about 10 minutes away since we have our bikes. Otto came and we spend a couple of hours there doing laps and splashing around. 

Sunday i hooked up with the weekly bike group. i made the mistake of taking Otto with me (it was unclear if it was a family friendly event and they encouraged me to bring him). but ended up being a bunch of serious adult bikers. so we all rode together for a short time, which helped me to learn some back roads. i couldnt deal with Otto's complaining any longer and he refused to bike home alone (we were close and it was a direct route home), so i split from the group, dropped O at home and took off for another 45 minutes. It was really fun. lots of back and side roads. one of the advantages to where we live is that there is not a lot of traffic.

Good week all in all. We have an advocate for the Embassy community (referred to as the CLO - community liason officer) who is doing a great job pushing the 'get out of the house' agenda with the powers that be in the Embassy. the vehicle situation is still very strict and rigid, but we are at least getting transport on occas and she is pushing for more.  this will likely continue to improve as more people arrive at post (we have a new family and a couple more heads of offices that are now posted here, putting our numbers well over 100). with more people car-less, that is more voices to push the morale issue.  i have to say for myself, i am feeling so much better about life/work and being here just being able to get out and experience what is going on around me.

the only other BIG change is the weather. about a week ago all of a sudden 'winter' is over. the temps went from pleasant 90's to the high 100's almost overnight. at night it is only cooling to the 80's. it is HOT. and i am told this is nothing.  ugghhh. but Otto an i have acclimated enough that we can get outside for activities in the early morning. still seems really hot in the late evening after the sun has gone down.  we are spending much more time in the pool, and i am glad i invested in the volleyball net/ball for the pool and other various pool 'toys'.

once again, sorry for the lack of photos. i am getting a real camera, but probably wont have it for a few months.  so, here are some random photos for your viewing pleasure.

Random back yard. the ever present bicycle

Flower from our last safari. these pop up straight out of the ground and were generally most noticeable on the side and middle of the road

The flower blooms from this. of course the picture doesnt do justice, but beautiful, bright color in an otherwise dry, reddish brown landscape

The courtyard of my friend/colleagues hotel (Hotel Ricardo). it is very homey, full of plants and animals (and now 10 dogs because she took in Tusker so he wouldnt have to be put down).